Road Trip to Muktinath, Nepal
Dr. Sukumar Canada
Our road journey to Muktinath began with a short flight to Pokhara,
Nepal’s second-largest tourist city. Muktinath Temple lies about 375 kilometres
from Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, at an altitude of approximately 3,700
metres, or 12,500 feet.
Ashish Gurung, who accompanied us on the journey, had warned us that
the drive would take ten to eleven hours. We therefore booked a flight to
Jomsom, the nearest major town to the temple, planning to hire a vehicle from
there. Since flights to Jomsom operated only in the morning, we spent a night
in Pokhara.
Pokhara is situated at an altitude of about 820 metres. Jomsom,
roughly 145 kilometres away, lies at an elevation of nearly 2,700 metres. When
we reached the airport to board our flight, however, we learned that it had
been cancelled because of bad weather. We had originally planned to spend that
night in Jomsom and travel to Muktinath the following morning, but the
cancellation forced us to change our plans. We decided to continue by road.
We hired a Mahindra Scorpio, a compact sport utility vehicle
manufactured in India. Fuel-efficient and sturdy, it was well suited to Nepal’s
rugged landscape of mountains and steep passes. Although a few stretches of
road were of reasonable quality, much of the journey felt like a roller-coaster
ride. Potholes, loose rocks and streams crossing the road posed little
difficulty for the Scorpio.
Driving along narrow mountain tracks beside deep gorges overlooking
the Kali Gandaki River was both exciting and unnerving. The vehicle crossed
sharp stones and small depressions with ease, but the buses and trucks
approaching us from the opposite direction on those narrow roads caused some
anxiety.
The Kali Gandaki flowed rapidly beside us, moving in the opposite
direction. Its waters appeared deep and dark grey, and its riverbed was filled
with rocky outcrops and smooth stones. Salagrama stones are found along both
banks of this river and on the small islands and deltas formed within it.
These naturally occurring black stones often bear sacred-looking
shapes and markings. Many resemble dark Shiva lingas, while others display
different colours and naturally formed patterns. Each variety is traditionally
associated with a particular Hindu deity. Salagrama stones collected from this
region are worshipped as sacred icons in temples across India, including many
in Kerala.
The changing landscape throughout the journey was extraordinarily
beautiful. At first, the roadside was filled with lush green trees and plants.
Gradually, the vegetation gave way to rocky terrain. Under a brilliant blue
sky, we saw treeless mountain folds and valleys in shades of dark grey and
yellow.
As we climbed from Jomsom toward Muktinath, the altitude increased by
nearly another kilometre. The higher the vehicle climbed, the more difficult
breathing became.
We reached Muktinath around noon. Although the sun was directly
overhead, the air remained cold. I had to wear light gloves to keep my hands
warm and a cap to protect my head.
Our vehicle stopped at the foot of the hill where the Hindu and
Buddhist shrines are located. From there, visitors may either climb the long
flight of steps or ride a horse along a path through the nearby scrubland.
Since I was scheduled to begin the Kailash pilgrimage within a few
days, I decided to go on horseback and conserve my energy. It took about half
an hour to reach the temple area, followed by another half-hour of walking to
see the principal shrines.
A Sacred Place
for Hindus and Buddhists
Muktinath is a remarkable pilgrimage centre in Nepal’s Mustang
District, situated at an altitude of approximately 12,400 feet. It is equally
sacred to Hindus and Buddhists.
The complex contains a beautiful Vishnu temple as well as a Buddhist
shrine dedicated to Avalokiteshvara. Although the Vishnu temple is located
outside India, it is revered as one of the 108 Divya Desams, the sacred temples
of Vishnu celebrated in the Sri Vaishnava tradition. The site is also regarded
as one of the fifty-one Shakti Peethas associated with the Divine Mother.
The local people largely follow a branch of Tibetan Buddhism. In
Tibetan Buddhist belief, the Dalai Lama is revered as an embodiment of
Avalokiteshvara, the Bodhisattva of compassion.
A magnificent statue of the Buddha attracts the eye even from a
distance. Beneath the Buddhist temple is a sacred, continuously burning flame
fuelled by natural gas emerging from the earth.
Muktinath is renowned as a place of liberation, or mukti. In
Buddhist tradition, it is counted among twenty-one important Tantric sites.
Several dark stone stupas stand near the Buddhist shrine at the top of the
hill, where there is also a monastery.
The region is believed to be the dwelling place of twenty-one dancing
goddesses known as dakinis. According to tradition, Padmasambhava, also known
as Guru Rinpoche and revered as a founder of Tibetan Buddhism, meditated at
Muktinath during his journey to Tibet.
Trekkers travelling along the famous Annapurna Circuit commonly spend
a night at Muktinath before continuing their journey.
The Temple and Its Traditions
Muktinath Temple is associated with the devotional tradition of South
Indian saints and royal patrons. Their contributions and the hymns composed in
praise of the shrine are recorded in the Nalayira Divya Prabandham, the
collection of four thousand Tamil devotional verses composed by the Alvars
between approximately the seventh and ninth centuries.
The sacred complex is also associated with the worship of the five
fundamental elements of the universe—space, air, fire, water and earth.
A pagoda-style Mahadeva temple in the complex is said to have been
modelled on the Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu. Four shrines surrounding it
symbolically represent Dwarka, Badrinath, Kedarnath and Rameswaram.
To the right of the Shiva temple stands a Vishnupaduka shrine combined
with a stupa. The upper portion resembles a Buddhist stupa, while the lower
portion represents the sacred footprints of Vishnu. It is believed that those
unable to undertake the full Char Dham pilgrimage may receive similar spiritual
merit by circumambulating this Vishnupaduka shrine.
The principal temple is locally known as Muktinath or Muktinarayan
Temple. The name “Muktinath” signifies the abode of Lord Vishnu, who is
worshipped as the Supreme Being who guides devotees toward liberation and
salvation. In Buddhist tradition, Vishnu is worshipped here under the name
Luang Gelbu.
The three-storeyed temple, built in pagoda style with a copper roof,
is traditionally believed to have ancient origins extending back nearly two
thousand years. The present pagoda-style structure, however, is generally
associated with the early nineteenth century, around 1815.
Inside the sanctum is a copper image of Muktinath. Vishnu is shown
seated in the lotus posture with four arms, protected by the hoods of seven
serpents. Lakshmi and Saraswati sit on either side.
Lakshmi is the goddess of wealth, prosperity and auspiciousness, while
Saraswati is the goddess of learning, music and the arts. In front of them are
images of Garuda, the divine vehicle of Vishnu, and Lord Ganesha.
The sanctum also contains three figures associated with the Mahayana
Buddhist tradition: Ho-Pang-Me, Che-Pang-Me and Dorje Sempa.
The 108 Mukti
Dhara
One of the most striking features of Muktinath is the series of 108
sacred water spouts known as the Mukti Dhara. Water flows continuously
throughout the year from mouths shaped like bulls’ heads. The water comes from
glaciers located high in the surrounding mountains.
The number 108 has profound significance in both Hindu philosophy and
Tibetan Buddhism. It is associated with the 108 sacred texts of Tibetan
Buddhist tradition and with the 108 beads of the prayer malas used by Buddhists
and Hindus.
Two sacred ponds lie in front of the temple. In earlier times,
pilgrims immersed themselves in their icy waters, although bathing there is now
restricted. Despite the intense sunlight, the water remains extremely cold.
The 108 spouts are arranged in a semicircle behind the temple. Before
entering for darshan, devotees walk beneath them, chanting prayers as the
freezing water falls over their bodies. On their return, many collect the
sacred water in bottles to carry home for relatives and friends.
I too walked beneath the 108 Mukti Dhara, allowing the sacred water to
fall over me before entering the temple for darshan. After visiting the shrine
and descending nearly four hundred steps, I felt a deeper sense of peace.
At the foot of the hill, we met several monks and ascetics who lived
there and practised spiritual disciplines. Two of them calmly allowed us to
take their photographs. When we offered them dakshina, they accepted it
without any visible change of expression.
The Journey Back
Before beginning our return journey, I stood looking at the long
staircase leading toward the shrine. Ashish Gurung said to me:
“Next week, I have to come here twice more. No matter how many times I
visit this place, it always feels new.”
Travel Tips
Travellers are advised to arrange the journey through a reliable
travel agent. Road accidents and aviation incidents are not uncommon in Nepal’s
mountainous regions, where roads are often lined with rocks, cliffs and sharp
hairpin bends.
Travel during the monsoon season, from June to September, is best
avoided. Hotels and travel services suitable for a wide range of budgets are
available throughout Nepal.
Citizens of many countries can obtain a visa on arrival at Tribhuvan
International Airport in Kathmandu.
Facts & Figures
Location Mustang
District, Gandaki Province, Nepal
Altitude 3,800m
/ 12,467ft above sea level
Deity Lord Vishnu (Muktinath)
Buddhist name Chumig
Gyatsa — “Hundred Waters”
Temple timings Daily
5:00 AM–12:00 PM & 2:00 PM–9:00 PM
Morning Aarti Around
6:00 AM
Evening Aarti Around
7:00 PM
Nearest airport Jomsom
Airport (22km / 1.5–2 hrs by jeep)
Entry permit ACAP — NRs 3,000/- foreigners / NRs. 1,000/-
SAARC nationals
Helicopter Kathmandu-
Mukthinath- Kathmandu– Same day return
$400–$800 USD per person suitable for elderly pilgrims,
families, luxury travelers 1 to 1.25 hours
from Kathmandu
Flight + Road
(Pokhara → Jomsom →
Muktinath) 1.5–2 days
$150 – $160 USD (one
way flight) + jeep fare Most visitors —
best balance of comfort and cost
Road Journey via Pokhara - over 2 days
7 to 9 hours [by Jeep] 11 to 12+ hours [by Local Bus]
$15–$24 (bus) or
US$265–380 (private jeep) Budget travelers, scenic road trips
Annapurna
Circuit Trek 12–15 days Cost Varies by itinerary - Trekkers and
adventure travelers, Reaches Muktinath
after crossing Thorong La Pass (5,416m)
